Sunday letter · Week 39
Letters from the cellar — Week 39
27 September 2026
The light has begun to slant low across the cellar floor, casting long shadows over the racks as the air turns crisp. This week, I found myself drawn to bottles that speak of the changing seasons, balancing the memory of summer’s warmth with the promise of autumnal reflection.
From the writing desk
There is a particular stillness that settles in during late September, the kind that invites you to pull a cork and simply watch how the wine unravels. This week, my thoughts have drifted toward the dialogue between tension and time, a conversation beautifully captured in the stories I’ve been crafting. Whether it is the precision of a young, chalky Chardonnay or the graceful, slow-burn complexity of an older harvest, the cellar remains our best teacher. As I explored in The soul of the Côte des Blancs, there is something about the way a wine can be creamy, fresh in acidity, with a distinct saline and chalky minerality that anchors us to the earth. Similarly, reflecting on the deeper, quieter moments of maturation, I was reminded that the best wines are those that allow us to experience maturity and development without rushing the narrative. Every bottle opened this week has been a reminder to move slowly, to pay attention, and to savor the quiet evolution in the glass.
The one to find
Agrapart & Fils Terroirs Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru — 91. Seek this out when you need clarity. It is the quintessential expression of Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs—lean, vibrant, and possessed of a chalky minerality that feels like a breath of fresh air. It is honest, precise, and utterly lovely.
Quietly excellent
André Beaufort Polisy 2004 — 90. A bottle that wears its years with elegant composure, offering comforting notes of mushroom and caramelized apple that speak to a life well-spent in the cellar. Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie NV — 90. This is a masterclass in balance, where the power of Pinot Noir meets a delicate, brioche-kissed freshness that keeps you coming back for another glass.
What to put away
Both the Agrapart & Fils Terroirs and the Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie show enough structural integrity to hold or improve through 2036. If you find them, tuck them into the cooler corners of your cellar—they will reward your patience with even greater depth in the years to come.