Preparing the year's finale

Good morning, This week I have poured all my time into shaping the last events of the year, hand-picking wines that will leave most people breathless and building settings where champagne itself takes centre stage. Sharing rare tasting experiences with others who love champagne as much as I do is a joy in itself, but being given the chance to put together tastings devoted to two of my favourite houses within such a short span of time feels like something truly special. No new notes went up this week, so this letter looks back into the archive instead, drawing out eight bottles worth revisiting.

A bomb of a wine, rich and already lightly developed, with a creamy texture. Fresh fruit still runs through the core. Toasted hazelnut has arrived alongside — the mark of real time, without dosage to soften the landing.

A fresh breath in the Ruinart range. Light warm spice from the oak, lovely citrus, yellow plum and quince, and extreme amounts of chalk. Good to finally see a Champagne with zero dosage from this house.

A richer, more oxidative style than one usually finds in a pure Chardonnay. Creamy in texture, with clear notes of ripe apple, dried fig, candied citrus, warm spice and toasted yeast.