The malic question

Good morning, It's been a quiet week, with relatively little going on that you'd notice from the outside. Most of my time has gone into preparing for next week's visit from Krug. But there's one thought I can't quite set aside: how producers approach malolactic fermentation. For many, it's purely a stylistic call — run it fully, partially, or block it altogether. Given the temperatures we're seeing now, though, I find myself hoping more producers choose to block it, if only to keep a livelier acidity in the wine. But what do the producers themselves think? No new notes went up this week, so instead the letter turns back to the archive, drawing on eight bottles from earlier on.

Floral aromatics of jasmine and citrus blossom lead, with white peach, lemon zest and a touch of grapefruit. The finish is beautifully chalky.

Red apples and yellow orchard fruit sit with minerals, baking spice, oak and toasted nuts. A somewhat high dosage adds fullness that the acidity and fruit don't quite balance. The exit is clean and mineral.

This is big and rich, with yellow fruit and clear signs of a warm vintage. To my mind, it loses much of its minerality and character in the ripe fruit. The concentration and acidity are there. I had expected more from this house in 2018. I hope the true character comes with time.