A rule change that makes sense, and one that sends a warning

The house has kept its own pace through every vintage, and the cellar still works the way it always has: one press, one tank, one decision at a time.

Everything here is allowed to settle slowly. The wines rest longer than the market asks for, and the family tastes the whole range before anything leaves the cellar.

What follows is written from visits, from bottles opened too early and a few opened at exactly the right moment.

The house has kept its own pace through every vintage, and the cellar still works the way it always has: one press, one tank, one decision at a time.