Sunday letter · Week 38
Letters from the cellar — Week 38
20 September 2026
The light has turned that distinct, pale gold of late September, and the cellar feels quiet after the harvest frenzy. I have spent these evenings pulling corks and reflecting on the shifting landscape of Champagne, both in the vineyards and the legal codes that govern them.
From the writing desk
This week, the conversation turned toward a significant shift in the region's regulations, a change that reflects the warming climate we are all observing. Champagne can now be bottled above 13% alcohol for the first time in its history. The rule change is sensible enough. It's the reason behind it that keeps me up. When I wrote A rule change that makes sense, and one that sends a warning, I was thinking of the pressure on producers whose reserve stocks are being stretched thin by this new reality of lower yields and higher sugar. It is a time for patience and precision, traits we can certainly appreciate when pouring a glass of something truly spectacular to end the week.
The one to find
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2013 — 95. This is a rare, magnificent treat. It is a firework display of Chardonnay, where notes of tonka bean and roasted coffee are perfectly reined in by a vibrant, precise acidity. If you find a bottle, hold onto it—or open it for a moment that deserves true brilliance.
Quietly excellent
Louis Roederer Collection 246 — 91. A masterclass in the house style; clean, mineral, and stitched together with a lovely citrus freshness that feels effortless.
Charles Heidsieck Rosé Réserve — 90. A delightful salmon-hued companion, reminding me of cherry yogurt and wild raspberries. It is as pretty as it is drinkable.
Pol Roger Brut Vintage 2018 — 90. A richer, warmer vintage expression that wears its heart on its sleeve—comforting, round, and full of ripe stone fruit.
Worth knowing
Jean Moutardier Carte d'Or — 89. A charming, accessible wine with sweet fruit aromatics that make it a very easy pleasure for a quiet Tuesday evening.
What to put away
If you are planning your cellar for the years ahead, the Taittinger 2013 and the Roederer 246 are long-distance runners that will only grow in character. Keep the Charles Heidsieck for the next few years to enjoy its primary fruit, while the Pol Roger 2018 is ready to be enjoyed now or over the next decade.